On this page
- What should I check first when my EV won't charge at home?
- How do I troubleshoot a wallbox that won't start a charge?
- What do I do when a public charger won't work?
- Could the charging cable be the problem?
- Are there car settings that could be blocking charging?
- What can I do if I'm stuck away from home with no working charger?
- Frequently asked questions

If your electric car will not charge, the cause is usually straightforward to identify and fix: a loose cable connection, a tripped circuit breaker, a public charger fault, or a scheduling setting in the car's software. Start with the simplest checks first before assuming anything is seriously wrong. Having a portable EV charger in the boot gives you a reliable fallback, because even if every wallbox fails you, you can top up from a standard domestic socket overnight.
| Symptom | Likely cause | First step |
|---|---|---|
| Car plugged in but not charging at home | Charging schedule active, or socket/MCB fault | Check the car's charging schedule; check the circuit breaker hasn't tripped |
| Wallbox shows an error code | Wallbox fault, smart charging conflict, or firmware issue | Check the wallbox app for details; restart the wallbox at the unit or in the app |
| Public charger not starting | Payment/auth failure, charger fault, or network outage | Try the network's app instead of the RFID card; call the helpline on the charger |
| Cable won't lock into the car or charger | Damaged connector, debris in port, or wrong cable type | Inspect both ends carefully; clean the port with dry compressed air |
| Charging starts but stops early | Target charge limit set, overheating protection, or grid signal | Check the charge limit setting in the car's app; let the battery cool before retrying |
| 3-pin granny charger not working | Extension lead, RCD trip, or charger fault | Plug directly into a wall socket; never use an extension lead with a granny charger |
What should I check first when my EV won't charge at home?
Start with the basics: make sure the cable is fully seated at both the car end and the socket or wallbox end. A connector that looks plugged in but hasn't clicked into place is a very common cause of a failed charge session. Next, check whether the car has a charging schedule set that is deliberately delaying the session until off-peak hours. If the schedule looks fine, check the household circuit breaker or MCB for the socket or wallbox circuit to see if it has tripped. If you are using a portable granny charger, plug it directly into a wall socket rather than an extension lead, which can cause faults.
How do I troubleshoot a wallbox that won't start a charge?
Open the wallbox manufacturer's app and check for any error messages or status alerts. Many smart wallboxes log fault codes that point directly at the problem. If there is an active smart charging schedule or a grid signal that is pausing charging, you can usually override it manually in the app. Try restarting the wallbox: most units have a reset option in the app, or you can switch it off at the consumer unit for thirty seconds and back on. If the problem persists, contact the wallbox manufacturer's support line; they can often diagnose remotely using the unit's telemetry.
What do I do when a public charger won't work?
Public charger faults are more common than they should be, so having a clear plan saves time. First, try authenticating via the network's smartphone app rather than the RFID card, as card readers can develop faults even when the charger itself works. If the charger has multiple connectors, try a different one. Every public charger is required to display a helpline number; call it, as operators can often reset the unit remotely within minutes. If none of that works, use a mapping app to find the next nearest charger and move on rather than waiting.
Could the charging cable be the problem?
Yes, cables do develop faults, particularly if they have been stored carelessly, driven over, or repeatedly bent sharply near the connectors. Inspect both ends for bent or corroded pins and check the outer sheath for damage. Make sure the connector is clicking and locking correctly at both ends; a loose connection interrupts the pilot signal that tells the car charging is ready. If your cable is several years old and showing signs of wear, it is worth replacing it. Use our charging cable finder to match the right cable to your car, or browse Type 2 cables if your car uses the standard European connector.
Are there car settings that could be blocking charging?
Several software settings can prevent a charge session starting without any fault on the hardware side. Check the charge limit: many EVs default to a maximum state of charge to protect long-term battery health, and if the battery is already above that threshold the car will simply not charge. Check any active charging schedules or departure timers. Some cars also have a "charge when cost is low" feature tied to a smart tariff; if the tariff signal is not being received correctly, charging may never start. If you suspect a software glitch, a soft reset (switching the car fully off and waiting a minute before restarting) often clears it.
What can I do if I'm stuck away from home with no working charger?
This is where preparation pays off. If you carry a portable granny charger, you can request permission to use a domestic socket at a nearby house, hotel, or business and get enough range overnight to reach a working rapid charger in the morning. Zap-Map and similar apps show real-time charger status and can direct you to an alternative quickly. Make sure you have the helpline numbers for the major charging networks saved in your phone before you travel. Most breakdowns from charging failures are recoverable with a bit of patience and planning.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my EV say it's charging but the battery isn't going up?
This is often caused by a charge limit set in the car's settings, which stops charging once the battery reaches a certain level, say 80%. It can also be a very slow charge rate from a low-power socket that is barely keeping pace with the car's standby consumption. Check the charge limit setting first, then confirm the charging rate shown in the car's display is what you'd expect from the source.
Can I charge my EV in the rain?
Yes. EV charging connectors and car charge ports are designed to be weatherproof and safe in rain. Do not attempt to charge if there is visible damage to the cable or connector, but normal wet weather is not a safety concern. Charging in standing water that reaches the connectors is a different matter: follow the manufacturer's guidance in that scenario.
What does the pilot signal do, and why does it matter?
The pilot signal is a low-voltage communication between the cable and the car that confirms a safe connection before charging begins. If either connector is not fully seated, if the cable is damaged, or if the charger has a fault, the pilot signal fails and charging does not start. This is a deliberate safety feature. Inspecting the connectors carefully is always the right first step when charging refuses to begin.
Should I use an extension lead with my EV charger?
No. Extension leads are not rated for the sustained current draw of EV charging and can overheat, trip RCDs, or present a fire risk. Always plug a granny charger or portable unit directly into a fixed wall socket. If your socket is not in a convenient location, having a dedicated wallbox installed in the right place is the safer long-term solution.
How do I find out if a public charger is working before I drive to it?
Apps like Zap-Map and Plugsurfer aggregate real-time status data from most UK charging networks and show whether individual units are in service, out of order, or occupied. PlugShare relies on driver-reported status and can be useful for less common locations. Check before you travel on any longer journey and always have a backup charger planned into the route.
When should I contact the manufacturer or dealer about a charging fault?
If you have worked through the basics, including cable checks, circuit breaker checks, and car setting checks, and the car still refuses to charge from any source, it is time to contact the dealer or manufacturer's helpline. Faults with the car's onboard charger, the charge port latch, or the battery management system are not user-serviceable and need a diagnostic tool to identify properly.
A charging problem is rarely a disaster once you know where to look. Work through the cable, the settings, and the power source in order, and most issues resolve quickly. Explore our full guides library for more EV ownership advice, and if you need a new cable or a portable charger as backup, browse our range of Type 2 charging cables and portable EV chargers.

Written by
Graham DoddCo-founder · drives a Volkswagen ID. Buzz
Graham drives a Volkswagen ID. Buzz and is happiest with it loaded up for a weekend away. Road trips, campsites and public AC points are his testing ground, so he knows first-hand why a cable needs to be the right length and easy to coil back into the boot.
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