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What Cable Do You Need for a Zappi Charger?

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Zappi-style home EV wallbox mounted on a house wall

If you have an untethered Zappi, you need your own Type 2 to Type 2 charging lead, rated to match the box's power. The Zappi is sold in two versions: untethered, which has a plain socket you plug your own cable into, and tethered, which comes with a cable permanently attached so you bring nothing extra. So the answer depends on which one you fitted. If yours has a socket rather than a built-in cable, browse the Type 2 charging cables range and match the length and power to your setup. Not sure what your car needs? The cable finder works it out from your registration.

At a glance: Zappi cable needs

Your Zappi Cable you need Notes
Untethered (socket only) Your own Type 2 to Type 2 lead Match power and length to your setup
Tethered (cable attached) None, it is built in Cable end plugs straight into the car
Single-phase home 7.4kW Type 2 lead is plenty Standard for most UK homes
Three-phase home 22kW-rated Type 2 lead Only if car and supply support it

Does a Zappi come with a cable?

It depends on which version you bought. The tethered Zappi ships with a charging cable already attached to the unit, so you simply take the end and plug it into your car. The untethered Zappi has a socket on the front instead, which keeps the unit tidier when idle but means you supply your own Type 2 to Type 2 lead. Neither is better in the abstract: tethered is more convenient, untethered is neater and lets you swap cable lengths.

What cable does an untethered Zappi need?

An untethered Zappi needs a standard Type 2 to Type 2 charging cable, the same universal AC lead used at most public chargers and other untethered wallboxes. Both ends are Type 2 connectors: one plugs into the Zappi's socket, the other into your car's charge port. This is the ordinary home charging cable, not a rapid DC lead and not a granny charger. Choose the power rating and length to suit, then it will work with the Zappi exactly as it works at any Type 2 point.

What power rating should I choose?

For nearly every UK home, a 7.4kW Type 2 cable is the right choice, because most homes are single phase and 7.4kW is the ceiling on a single-phase supply. A 22kW-rated cable only delivers 22kW if you have a three-phase supply and a car that can accept three-phase AC, which is a minority of setups. On a single-phase home a 22kW cable charges at the same 7.4kW, just heavier and pricier. To weigh this up, see 7kW vs 22kW and do I need a 22kW cable.

What length of cable suits a Zappi?

A 5m cable suits most home Zappi installs, reaching the car comfortably on a typical driveway. Choose a longer 7m or 10m lead if your charge port sits on the far side of the car from the box, if you park at an angle, or if you sometimes need to reach past another vehicle.

  • 5m: standard driveways with the box near the parking spot.
  • 7m: awkward inlet position or a slightly longer reach.
  • 10m: shared spaces, on-street parking, or reaching around a car.

Remember that longer cables are heavier to coil and store, so do not size up more than you need.

Does the car end matter?

Yes, the car end must match your car's inlet, though for almost every EV sold since 2018 that inlet is Type 2, so a Type 2 to Type 2 lead is correct. A small number of older cars use a Type 1 inlet, which needs a Type 1 to Type 2 cable instead. The Zappi end is always Type 2. If you are unsure which your car has, check Type 1 vs Type 2 or run your registration through the cable finder.

Frequently asked questions

Does the Zappi charger include a cable?

Only the tethered version, which has a charging cable permanently attached. The untethered Zappi has a socket instead, so you provide your own Type 2 to Type 2 lead. Check your unit: if there is a fixed cable it is tethered, and if there is just a socket on the front it is untethered and needs your own cable.

What cable do I need for an untethered Zappi?

A standard Type 2 to Type 2 charging cable, rated to match your setup. Both ends are Type 2 connectors, one for the Zappi socket and one for your car. For most UK homes a 7.4kW lead is plenty, since single-phase supplies cap at that rate. Pick a length that reaches your charge port comfortably.

Will a 22kW cable make my Zappi faster?

Not on a single-phase home. A cable only delivers what the weakest link allows, so a 22kW-rated lead on a single-phase supply still charges at 7.4kW. You only see faster AC charging with a three-phase supply and a car that accepts three-phase power. For most homes, a 7.4kW cable is the sensible, cheaper choice.

Can I use my public charging cable with a Zappi?

Yes. The Type 2 to Type 2 lead you use at untethered public chargers is the same lead an untethered Zappi needs. One cable covers your home Zappi and most public AC points, which is one of the advantages of the untethered setup. Just make sure its power rating suits both.

What length cable is best for a home Zappi?

5m suits most driveways with the box near the parking spot. Choose 7m or 10m if your charge port is on the far side of the car, you park at an angle, or you need to reach past another vehicle. Longer cables weigh more and take more storage space, so avoid oversizing.

Does my car end need to be Type 2?

For almost every EV sold since 2018, yes, so a Type 2 to Type 2 cable is correct. A few older cars use a Type 1 inlet and need a Type 1 to Type 2 lead. The Zappi end is always Type 2. Check your car's inlet or use the cable finder if you are unsure.

In short, a tethered Zappi has its cable built in, while an untethered Zappi needs your own Type 2 to Type 2 lead sized to your supply, car and driveway. Browse the Type 2 charging cables range to pick a length and power rating, and if you are weighing up which Zappi to fit in the first place, read tethered vs untethered wallbox alongside what cable an untethered home charger needs.

Graham Dodd, Co-founder

Written by

Graham Dodd

Co-founder · drives a Volkswagen ID. Buzz

Graham drives a Volkswagen ID. Buzz and is happiest with it loaded up for a weekend away. Road trips, campsites and public AC points are his testing ground, so he knows first-hand why a cable needs to be the right length and easy to coil back into the boot.

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