Why Won't My Car Start Charging at a Public Charger?

Public charger refusing to start is one of the most frustrating experiences in EV ownership, but the cause is almost always something straightforward to fix. The most common culprits are a poor cable connection, an expired or unrecognised payment method, a temporary network fault, and occasionally the charger itself being out of service. Before you assume there is a problem with your car, work through a few quick checks, and browse our other guides for broader public charging tips.

Why does the connection matter so much?

The most common reason a session fails to start is an incomplete connection. On a tethered rapid charger, push the connector firmly into the port until you hear or feel a definite click. On an untethered AC charger you bring your own Type 2 charging cable, so check both ends: the charger socket and the car socket. Even a small amount of dirt or moisture on the contacts can prevent the handshake that starts the session. Wipe the contacts gently with a dry cloth if they look dirty, and try again.

Could the payment method be the problem?

Many public chargers require you to authenticate before power flows. Depending on the network, that means tapping a contactless card, scanning a QR code, or starting a session through the network's app. If your card has recently been reissued or your app account has lapsed, authentication will fail silently. Check that your payment details are up to date in the app, and try contactless if the app is not working. Some newer chargers under the UK's roaming regulations also accept a wider range of RFID cards and apps, so a backup option is worth having.

What if the charger itself is the fault?

Public charging infrastructure has improved considerably, but individual units still go offline. If one charger is unresponsive, try a neighbouring bay before assuming the fault is with your car. Look at the charger's screen for an error code and note it down: when you call the network's helpline (the number is usually on the unit), an error code helps them diagnose the problem quickly. Networks such as BP Pulse, InstaVolt, Gridserve, Pod Point, and Shell Recharge all have dedicated fault lines, and apps such as Zapmap let you mark a charger as broken so other drivers know to avoid it.

Could your car's settings be blocking the charge?

Some vehicles have features that can prevent a session starting even when everything else looks correct.

• Charge limit: If you have set your car to charge to a lower state of charge (say, for battery health), and the battery is already above that limit, the car will refuse to charge. Raise the limit temporarily in the car's menu.
• Scheduled charging: If a charging schedule is active, the car may not draw power immediately. Disable or override the schedule before plugging in at a public charger.
• Charge port lock: Some cars lock the port when the car is locked. Make sure the car is unlocked before inserting the connector.
• Software glitch: A soft reset by switching the car off and back on can sometimes clear a temporary communication error between the car and the charger.

Does the cable type matter at a rapid charger?

Rapid and ultra-rapid DC chargers use fixed tethered cables with CCS2 or CHAdeMO connectors, so you do not need your own cable for those. AC destination chargers and lamp-post chargers, however, typically have a Type 2 socket but no cable, which is why carrying your own cable is sensible. Using the wrong cable type will simply mean the connector does not fit, which is immediately obvious. If you are not sure which connector your car uses, check the manufacturer's documentation or use the reg checker on our home page to confirm.

When should you give up and move on?

If you have tried all the above and the charger still will not start, it is almost certainly a hardware or network fault with the unit itself. Log the issue in the network app, call the helpline if you have time, and head to the next available charger. Zapmap's live status feature can show you nearby alternatives and their reported reliability, which saves a wasted detour. Persistent problems at a specific site are worth reporting to the network directly: it helps them prioritise maintenance and benefits every EV driver who uses that location.

Frequently asked questions

Why does the charger show "authorisation failed" even though my card works elsewhere?

Some charging networks require a specific RFID card or their own app rather than a standard contactless payment. Check whether the charger requires a network membership. Alternatively, the card reader may have a temporary hardware fault. Try the network's app as a backup, or call the helpline number on the unit.

My car started charging then stopped after a few minutes. What happened?

This usually points to a loose connection that worked initially but lost contact as the cable settled. Try unplugging and reconnecting firmly. It can also be a payment session timing out, a network fault, or the car reaching its set charge limit. Check the car's display and the charger's screen for any error messages.

Does cold weather make public charging more difficult to start?

Cold temperatures can slow the initial handshake between car and charger, especially on rapid DC units. Many EVs will pre-condition the battery before a fast charge if you navigate to the charger via the car's sat nav. This warms the battery to a better operating temperature and usually makes the session start more reliably. Allow a little extra time in winter.

Why does a rapid charger start fine for other cars but not mine?

Connector compatibility is the first thing to check: CCS2 is the most common in the UK, but some older EVs use CHAdeMO. If the connector fits and others are charging, the issue may be with your car's charge management software or a temporary OCPP communication error. A soft reset of the car's infotainment system sometimes clears this.

Can a faulty cable prevent a session from starting?

Yes. A damaged cable, bent pins, or corroded contacts can all prevent the car-to-charger handshake that triggers a session. Inspect the connector for visible damage before each use. If you own the cable, store it in a bag to keep the contacts clean. A good-quality cable with robust connectors is less likely to cause intermittent connection issues.

What is the best way to report a broken public charger?

Most charging networks have an in-app report function and a telephone helpline printed on the unit. You can also mark a charger as broken on Zapmap, which flags it for other drivers immediately. Reporting promptly helps networks prioritise repairs and keeps accurate status information available for everyone planning a journey.

Most public charging problems are quick to resolve once you know where to look, so do not let the occasional hiccup put you off. For home charging, a reliable Type 2 cable or a portable granny charger means you always arrive at the public network with a useful buffer of charge already on board.